Yes Emily

Yes Emily, girls can ride motorcycles!

Sunday, November 23, 2014

The Eastern Chronicles: Burgeo and Ramea

Guest Post 3 by Art Rider

Day 7, June 14, 2014

Change of plan today. Rode to Rose Blanche this morning: Interesting road to get there, only 47 km, but rough. Diabolical roads in Rose Blanche, up-and-down, really up-and-down, and in terrible shape, I was worried about crashing.
Couldn’t find the B&B, or so I thought. Finally asked at a house in the area and put in a call to the gal who is supposed to be running it. After a brief discussion about the roads and the location, I decided not to stay there, so I moved straight on to Burgeo. The road from the Trans-Canada at Stephenville to Burgeois is what I would call a wilderness road. 148 km through the wilds of Newfoundland with next to no shoulder and a lot of that washed away into the ditch.
Potholes everywhere and of course the threat of moose. Absolutely no chance to relax. In addition, I was low on fuel, really low and coasted into Burgeo on fumes.
I'm here now, at the Burgeo Haven B&B for a good long stay, then off to Ramea and then next week Francois. Lovely people here.
It’s also going to rain for a day or so, so the timing is perfect, relax and do some reading.

Day 8, June 15, 2014

What a treat being here in Burgeo at the Burgeo Haven. Martine and Dorim are wonderful people, like old friends. Lots of great conversations with Martine about art (she paints also) and Dorim about the local culture and what's happening to it now. He was born in Ramea, where I’m going next. He knows whose places I painted in Ramea and Francois last time I was here. He’s related to people in most of those places. It's great getting that kind of insight into this wonderful place. They invited me for a cod dinner last night and it looks like we are going to have lobster for “supper” tonight. I've got to get this “dinner” “supper” thing right. I bought a trout
fishing license, $11 for the whole season. I’ll be doing some fishing for sure! More later - adieu.

This is probably the most unique trip I have done so far. Every day seems to bring something new. New people, new places, new insight, also new ways of travel and of moving from place to place. And speaking of “place” the whole idea of “place” is what this place is all about. It’s why people are trying so hard to stay here and in their home places. It’s where their lives and the lives of their families and ancestors, now long gone, are buried. When and if they must go, they’ll lose themselves and their culture and way of life. You feel it everywhere you go, the need to be part of this place. The people who have left the out ports, willingly or not, have a hard time seeing what they have left, or what’s left of it. And that’s the sad part. The decay of the old home place, “It's like a dagger,” someone said to me. "It would have been better to have burned all the houses. It’s too hard to watch them fall down slowly; like watching a cancer patient pass and waste away." This trip is going to change me in ways I can’t even imagine yet. It might be my last big trip but what a way to finish up!

Day 9, June 16, 2014

Today at breakfast met a couple from the U.S.; a pair of conspiracy theorists, what else ... on the verge of paranoiac lunacy! Could not believe the crap he was coming out with, I won’t go into that here, but, needless to say, I couldn’t wait for them to leave. Drove the other couple right out of the room.
Took a walk down to the harbor and shot
some photos, as the rain had stopped. Got a few good shots. Did some reading when I got back with one wee glass of scotch.
Dorim picked up a few lobsters in town and we had a major feast of the beasts. They were about 2 pounds each and there was four, two each. Yes there was leftover lobster for sandwiches for our trout fishing trip tomorrow. Can't wait. Can't get over the generosity of these folks, just amazing.
Quiet evening and to bed.

Day 10, June 17, 2014

Met a couple from Kingston who were on their way to Francois to see the house that they had just bought, sight unseen for $10,000. It's going to be a summer place for them and they are going to sail their sailboat from Kingston next week. They would be my age, roughly, and very nice people. The other couple at breakfast was a couple from New Brunswick who were on their way to St. John’s, or thereabouts, to see family. They all had a great time going through my blog gallery and especially the images of Ramea and Francois from my last visit. I may run out of business cards!
After breakfast, we made some lobster sandwiches and headed out of town to do some trout fishing. We both caught enough for supper, oh goodie! Wonderful day, gorgeous scenery and great weather, that can’t be beat.
Back at the B&B and I’m exhausted. I’m just relaxing with a scotch, doing my journal and a little reading.
Trout for supper, how good is that?
After dinner, Dorim took the other two guests and myself for a boat ride around the islands. The perfect end to a perfect day.

Day 11, June 18, 2014

Looks like a relaxing day coming up. Waffles for breakfast, Yum!
The couple from N.B. are off today, nice folks.
Did some reading this morning, but after lunch Martine and I headed for Sandbanks Provincial Park for a stroll on the Burgeo beaches, wow! Miles of beautiful find brown sand beaches. By the end of August I hear it’s warm enough in the water to swim or so they say. Bit of a hike into the beach, but interesting terrain, on a nice boardwalk then a nice long stroll along the west beach. I have to admit my legs are a bit sore from the trout fishing hike yesterday. Off to Ramea tomorrow for a couple of days and then back here again. The adventure continues.

Day 12, June 19, 2014

So much for the best laid plans, this morning it was blowing up the gale and the ferry to Ramea is canceled. When Martine called to Ramea and to the place I was going to be staying to find out if the ferry was running today, she learned they had no reservation at Ramea Retreat for me, that was a surprise, but I talked to them and we got it straightened out, so I’m heading there tomorrow, I hope.
Tonight or this evening anyway, I’m making my famous fish chowder for Martine and Dorim, should be fun. Nice to get to cook a bit on this trip, I really miss doing it.
Looks like a bit more reading and a Scotch or two, a good day for that.
Let’s see what tomorrow brings.

Day 13, June 20, 2014

Did get on the Ramea ferry this morning, with a nice jar of fish chowder and grain bread from Martine, such a sweetie. Still rough seas but she got underway at 11:00 am, on schedule. Once out of the harbor, 3 to 4 m swells and a good strong northwest wind blowing. No problems with sickness for me and I stayed on deck all the way. The fare is $2.20 for a senior, wow! One and a half-hour trip.
Here in Ramea at Eastern Outdoors; my hostess, Darlene is a sweetheart too.
I’m in a very nice two-story three-bedroom house, $89 per night with breakfast, great deal. Too bad I'm here alone. Still looking for some bakeapple (cloudberry) jam, but I'm on the trail, I'll get some to bring home some place. I’ve got a lobster lined up for supper tomorrow. Darlene, at the restaurant, is going to cook it up for me. It's going to be a big one I think - the gal at the store says they will all be 2 pounds or bigger tomorrow. Too bad eh!
Going to walk out to the Lighthouse tomorrow and around the loop. Should be fun, good weather too, I hear.

(All Photos copyright Ron Peter)


  1. I'm scrambling here to pull out my maps. My time there was mainly on the north side where the 'big' roads were. Ron is doing a great job of describing much of what I felt while riding through and to the more populated areas. There was talk even then about changes coming to the Province.

  2. Coop, Ron chose to go where the road stops. The communities he made a point to visit this time were those that are only accessible by ferry. It is a huge province with so much to see (or so I hear) and there are roads to get you to many places, just not those outposts on the eastern shore.

  3. I have never heard of these places. Thanks, Ron for taking me there.

    1. Sonja - Ron certainly travelled off the beaten track ... few roads, only ferries and foot paths.