The Eastern Chronicles - Some Things May Look Familiar

Guest Post 6, The final post by Art Rider

Day 29, July 6, 2014

It’s cloudy today and still quite windy. The power went out again about 11:30 AM, so it’s back to the generator. The weather is back to normal, gorgeous, so I went for a spin this afternoon. Walked along Inverness Beach, still lots of storm surge and big surf. Went up to East Margaree to have a look at Ernie and Terri’s place and see who’s there. Didn’t see any signs of life. The driveway looks a lot better, must have done some work on it.

Supper at the Mull Restaurant and caught the last of the music at the Red Shoe over a pint. Just back to the Mabou River and it is just starting to spit rain. Should be over by morning, my last full day in Cape Breton will be a bike day. Now where to go?

Day 30, July 7, 2014

Very hot and humid today. We also got a bit of rain overnight, quite a bit I think.
Walked to the post office in Mabou to get the letter Lynne sent with more business cards. On the way back I stopped in at an art gallery run by a local artist Suzanne Chrysler. Very nice work in oils, had a great chat about art, what else.
Going to go for a spin, not sure where, almost too humid to ride but, it’s my last day here.

Once I got on the road, things felt better on the bike. Rode around some of the road on the east side of the Cabot, then dropped by the bike guy’s shop on the trail where Wayne got his famous battery for his Triumph way back when. Back in Mabou, I’m getting organized for my ride to P.E.I. tomorrow, might be rainy at times. Tomorrow morning I’ll know.

Day 31, July 8, 2014

Dawn broke cloudy with a good chance of showers, so I started the day from Malbou with my rain bibs on. Part way down to the Canso I got a bit of a sprinkle, so I put the rest of the gear on, it only lasted about 15 minutes or so, and didn’t really amount to much at all. About an hour later I was taking most of the gear off again. It was really windy all day with very changeable conditions but no rain, just the threat. Rode over to the Confederation Bridge on the Sunshine Trail battling the wind all the way. When I got on the Confederation it became a tailwind, nice.

Checked into the Heritage House B&B and had a shower, I needed it. Called Karen on the cell and she rolled over from the KOA and we rode out for some supper. Went over to the KOA to check out her campsite, very busy but a nice spot. We’re out for a tour tomorrow.

I guess when I’m done in P.E.I. I will ride the Gaspe after all since I called Norm tonight and it looks like my visit at their place is a no go.

Day 32, July 9, 2014

Looks like a lovely day coming, sunny but a bit windy. Lovely breakfast of toast, jam, strawberries, biscuits and muffins, and of course coffee.
When Karen shows up we can head out on our mini tour of P.E.I. We headed up to Stanley Bridge about 9:45 AM, along the Cavendish shore, red, red, red soil and rocks. No shortage of wind today. Had a chat with a guy who runs a deep-sea fishing charter out of North Rustico, $45 for three hours, I may do that, the price is right.

Got to Stanley Bridge and found Carr’s Oysters and Shellfish Shop. They are the guys that supply Rodney Oyster House in Toronto. I’ve been to this place at Stanley Bridge way back in 1987 with Freddy Workker on one of our trips east. So I had a half-dozen Malpeques, sooo good! I might go back there for a lobster for supper, if the weather is OK, something looks to be blowing in at the moment.
Had a nap this afternoon and headed back up to Stanley Bridge for some supper. On the way I found a motel to stay in on the weekend, in Rusticoville, The Pines. Not too fancy and a good price, $80, so I’m booked until Monday morning.

Signed up for a fishing charter at 8:00 AM Saturday morning, can’t wait.
At Carr’s Market I had 6 clams and 6 oysters, all on the half shell thanks to my trusty oyster knife, and a 1½ lb. cooked lobster, all so good.

Dropped in at Karen’s campsite for a visit and chat and to make some riding plans for tomorrow.
Back at the B&B, I am having a pre-sack time scotch and then, lights out.

Day 33, July 10, 2014

I heard this morning that around midnight, a couple showed up at the door here, looking for the room that booking.com had supposedly reserved for them. Unfortunately the B&B was full up. I don't know where they ended up, but it wasn't here, yikes!
Just waiting for Karen to show, then we are going to ride to Summerside, that’s the plan anyway.

Karen showed about 9:15 AM and we rode to Summerside then on up to North Cape and had a look at a lighthouse. Nice day for riding, maybe a little warm away from the coast. This island is bigger than you think, that was a good ride, pretty tired now.

Day 34, July 11, 2014

I’m on my way this morning to Rusticoville, but first lunch with Karen and her friends in Charlottetown at 12:30 on the Quay. I need gas and some scotch from the liquor store.

Met Karen and friends, relations actually, Matt’s Aunt Elizabeth and her first cousin Patsy. Had a nice lunch on the Quay in Charlottetown, lobster roll and Caesar salad, a good one too. We said our goodbyes and now I’m checked in at the Pines in Rusticoville and having a scotch before supper, a short walk to the end of the road to a good-looking place for seafood. I’ll keep you posted.

Weather looks good for the weekend and my fishing tomorrow. I may go Sunday as well, we’ll see. The weather channel is calling for rain on Monday, if it’s bad, I may stay put until Tuesday. After all, my schedule is very flexible. I may have had the best bowl of steamer clams ever at the little restaurant down the road. All they serve is seafood and very simply prepared, that’s best way.

In fact, I watched two guys wading in with buckets of clams that they had just dug. Since the tide is coming in, they would be finishing up. This little restaurant is a gem, the P.E.I. of old. These places still exist.

Called Lynne this evening, and got some fantastic news, I’ve been accepted into the McMichael Gallery’s fall show and sale this October!! That’s a national call and only 40 spots are available, I got one, I’m over the moon! I need to celebrate that with a scotch.

Day 35, July 12, 2014

Did the deep-sea fishing cruise this morning, 8 AM from North Rustico, first you fish for mackeral for bait or eating, if you choose the latter. Caught tons of mackeral, sometimes two at a time. On light tackle they would be real fun, then we moved on to the cod grounds, deeper water. The cod need to be 19 inches to be keepers.

Caught lots of cod but nothing big enough to keep. Only three keepers were brought in all trip but there was lots of action. Just a beautiful day on the water, no humidity, 20+ degrees and a lovely breeze, you can’t beat a day like that. I’m doing another cruise tomorrow morning with a different charter company, let’s see how I do.
I’m thinking fish and chips for lunch with a glass of wheat beer, yum.
Just rode up to New London to pick up some P.E.I. mussels and oysters for supper. Along with the cod that I was gifted from the fishing charter this morning, I have quite the feast in store. Oysters on the half shell, cod on the barbecue and steamed mussels courtesy of the motel owners cooker, what more could one ask?

The cod in foil on the barbecue was out of this world! So fresh, so good. Love the salty oysters from PEI too. I bought too many mussels, very full now.

Day 36, July 13, 2014

Another beautiful day, just perfect for fishing. The weather looks grim for the next few days and I'm on the road tomorrow. Well I’ve had such a good run of fabulous weather, it had to end eventually. I want to see how far, or, if I can find a place to hole up if it gets really bad. They’re calling for thunder showers and it might get a bit hairy. We’ll see tomorrow. But this morning the cod are calling. In cod we trust.

A little slow today in the fishing department, lots of mackerel as usual but, fewer cod and no real keepers. Only caught a few small ones myself.
Had another big bowl of steamer clams for lunch, wow! May have to have another last bowl tonight. Last chance for the good shellfish today, I’m on the road tomorrow, in the rain most likely. It looks like wet weather for the next few days. I guess it had to catch up with me eventually.

Went for a little spin this afternoon for an ice cream from Cows in Cavendish, what a tourist zoo! Found a roadside stand selling strawberries, I’m gorging on them now.

Had my last bowl of steamer clams this evening. I guess now I have to go home. Looks soggy for tomorrow and maybe more. Oh well.

Day 37, July 14, 2014

Started today in drizzle and wind, the Confederation bridge was a Crosswind nightmare. Once across the bridge the rain started in earnest, really bucketed it down in fits and starts. By 10:30 it had stopped, and by 11 o'clock the sun was out and it got quite warm. Quebec was the usual nightmare once out of New Brunswick, trucks, construction and bad road surfaces. It’s the only problem with going and coming to the Maritimes. Oh well. Did about 700 km and I’m here in St.

Andrea in a quaint motel/inn with a nice restaurant. The fish chowder was really good! Downed with a glass of white wine, nice.

Took a walk through town after supper, really interesting mix of architecture, old habitant Quebec styles with a mix of what looks like a Maritime salt box influence. Also a huge Catholic church of course. I may take the 2 lane road that parallels the St. Lawrence as far as it goes, probably Quebec City for a change from the TransCanada.

You can make great K’s on the big highway but it can wear you down after a while.
Could be home late tomorrow but, Wednesday is more likely. No need to kill myself for nothing.

Day 38, July 15, 2014

Good-looking day this morning, lots of sun and some high cloud. Breakfast at 7:00 on the road by 7:30. Took some of Highway 132 this morning, very nice with some beautiful views of the St. Lawrence River. After about an hour of that, construction and detours and lots of small towns spoiled the fun. Reverted back to the TransCanada and started to make real time.
The call was for thunder showers around noon in Montreal and right on time, it started to rain just as I got to Highway 30, the bypass and it bucketed down really hard for about one and a half hours. It quit about the time I got to the Ontario border.
By this time, my plan was to head straight for home, a long day but what the hell. The trucks on the road are enough to drive you crazy and there are sure enough of them. It’s hard to believe the numbers really, it seems like there are as many trucks as cars and they’re fanned out all over the road, of course no one can get by at all, just nuts. I rode the last 200 km on back roads, just to relax. Got home about 6:45 PM, a solid 950 km day. So good to be home and see my sweetie.
The first thing I did, after a good long hug was to jump in the pool! So good, unpacking can wait till tomorrow.

This is the last post in the Art Rider - Eastern Chronicles Series. Thank you Ron for sharing your journal and photos of your epic trip to Newfoundland and the other eastern provinces.
All photos in the 6 part series are the copy right of Ronald Peter.