The Eastern Chronicles - Waiting for Ferries and Storms ...

Guest Post 5 by Art Rider

Day 20, June 27, 2014
A grey day this morning with a bit of rain but it seems to be clearing up. The Reverend left this morning for Burgeo at 10:15 AM on the chopper; Wonder if that’s how I’ll get back on Monday? The ferry should be fixed by then. We’ll see. Still a bit of drizzle but I decided to go for a walk about anyway. Had a chat with the Manitoba folks, they’re still here … might get out on the chopper later today. I bumped into Eli and was invited into his house for a cup of tea. Wonderful folks. Back to Doris’s for lunch.

The news on the ferry is that it left Hermitage to come to François and broke down again, so it headed back to Hermitage. The chopper is now pressed into service for Saturday and Sunday, after that nobody knows what will happen. I booked a spot for a Sunday return to Burgeo, one day ahead of schedule. Better that than not get out at all. I’ve never been in a helicopter before. That will be exciting! The adventure continues.

Trout and Caplin fried up for supper by George himself, what could be better?
The rumor is that there will be another ferry in service by Sunday, so I might not get that chopper ride after all. I’ll be really disappointed if I don’t; will have to wait and see.
Looks like another boat ride down the coast tomorrow for a bit more trout fishing. Great fun!

Day 21, June 28, 2014
Took the fishing boat down to run Recontre Bay this morning with George and Eli at the helm: A gorgeous day, sunny and warm. Didn’t find any Caplin, ‘They’s gone bye they’s gone!’ No real amount of trout either from this other stream, just very small ones.

We had bottled moose, homemade bread and potato cakes for lunch, some good eh? Went down to Devil’s Bay for a look too; It’s so beautiful down there. Just unbelievable rock formations and waterfalls. Nice ride back, Lobster for supper and then I’m gone tomorrow. Looks like the new other ferry for me, unless things change. I was so looking forward to the chopper ride, Oh well.

The lobsters were sooo good but I’m fit to burst! I think I’m just about lobstered out…just waiting for enough room to open up for lemon pie!
Looks like the new replacement ferry is set to arrive - if it gets here tonight, I’ll be on it at 7:30 AM. If not who knows. (The ferry just pulled in at 8 PM so that’s it, I’ll be on her in the morning at 7:30 AM.)
Next stop Grey River then Burgeo.

Day 22, June 29, 2014
Eggs, ham and toast ready for me to eat at 6:30 AM. Doris looks after her boarders, I think I need to go on a diet now. Said my goodbyes to Doris and George; what warm generous people they are, and all of the people of Francois, who made my week there absolutely unforgettable. The ferry that has just been put into service on the coast run is a speedy little craft, although smaller than the Marine Voyager. The trip was a piece of cake, clear skies, light winds and lots of stunning coast to look at.

We made stops in Gray River, Ramea and got into Burgeo at 12 noon. Dorim came to pick me up and I'm back home in Burgeo at the Haven.
Now starts the reconstruction of my motorcycle luggage system before I go on to Port aux Basques on Wednesday. (Just going to relax today, as I’m here a day earlier than planned.)
Started to slowly get my luggage reorganized and had supper with Dorim and Martine, shark steaks with garlic and butter, ratatouille and green salad. We went for short boat ride after supper. Now I’m having a little taste of scotch, working on my journal and reading a new book, The Hungry Ocean by the female captain of a sword fishing boat, The Hannah Bodin. It was was the sister ship to the Andrea Gail (The Perfect Storm).Tomorrow – looks like it could be a Sandbanks Beach day, the weather is so nice.

Day 23, June 30, 2014
Another beautiful day in Burgeo, bright, sunny and soon to be warm. French toast this morning with fresh fruit and bakeapple jam, Yum Yum Yum! I called Lynne this morning and asked her to mail more of my business cards to Cape Breton for me. I’m down to five from roughly 30. They should be there when I arrive, hopefully. Got some reading in today then went to have a look at first and second beach at Sandbanks with Martine. We actually saw kids swimming in the ocean. Newfoundland kids are tough. We saw a hare on the trail back to the parking lot, a big one.

Got the photo. Burgers for supper, real nice. Rain moved in around 4:30, scattered showers tomorrow. It’s also my last full day tomorrow so time to pack up. I’m going to miss these folks and this place, big-time!!

Day 24, July 1, 2014
Bit of a change in plan today, I’m going to head back up to Port aux Basques, while the weather is good. Not looking forward to the Burgeo highway, but it must be done. I will wait until noon, fewer moose.

Cheese and chive omelette for breakfast, Oh so good! Left for Port aux Basques around 12:30 PM. No problems on the Burgeo slalom highway. Heartfelt goodbyes at the Burgeo Haven B&B with Dorim and Martine. I will miss them dearly. When I arrived here in Post aux Basques at the hotel, I gave them a call to let them know that I arrived OK.

Checked in about 4:30 PM. Met two guys from Massachusetts who are going back on the ferry tonight. They took the ferry to Argentia, Newfoundland and rode to St. John’s, then across the province to St. Barb’s, then took the ferry to Labrador just to say they were there, came back to Newfoundland, down to Port aux Basques and are now heading home. Both are my age. Old guys rock! Going to have some supper and head downtown for the music and fireworks. I guess I’ll cab, the bike is all put to bed.

Happy Canada Day!!

Day 25, July 2, 2014
Not a bad fireworks display at all. They blew some cash off there for sure, ‘Yis bye.’ Walked home from the park, about 1½ miles I’ll bet, exhausted.
It’s another beautiful day here in Port aux Basques. Fishcakes and eggs for breakfast. I’m going native, ‘Yis bye.’ I’m on the hunt for more bakeapple jam, it’s a scarce thing, even here in Newfoundland, but, I’m determined.
Another change of plan, when I get off the ferry tomorrow around 6 PM, I’m going to run straight to Mabou and try and beat the weather, since it is not sounding good for the weekend. One needs to be flexible around these parts. Did some book shopping today. I need some reading material if that tropical storm shows up in Cape Breton while I’m there, it looks fairly sure that it will.
One drop of scotch, then some supper. I’m on the ferry tomorrow at 9:45 AM.

Day 26, July 3, 2014
Overcast at the moment but clearing slightly later, then on to the ferry by 9:45 AM. My only concern today is what the weather might be when I get off the ferry in North Sydney. Time will tell. Departed at 11:45 AM sharp. A bit of a lonely trip on the ferry. Very few people on this trip.

A few bike people though, so we had a chance to chat. Should be arriving about 6:15 PM in North Sydney. I’m going to push straight on to Mabou and should pull in there about 7:30-7:45 PM. Sun is shining and it’s quite warm. Should be a good ride to Mabou.

Day 27, July 4, 2014
All snug here in Mabou. After a brief chat with Dave this morning over breakfast, my quest today is for some snow crab, so will ride up to Cheticamp, hopefully before the weather gets here. Got to Cheticamp in glorious sunshine around 11:45AM. The crab boat won’t be in until 3:30 or 4:00 PM, so I chose to ride up the Cabot Trail to Bay St. Lawrence to see what they have.

A crab boat was in when I got there about 1:00 PM, but it was waiting to unload, so about 2 o’clock, after I had a nice long chat with the skipper, he pulled three nice crab out of the hold, cleaned the legs up and when I asked how much for the crab, he said, nothing, I had a good day fishing, I’ve made my quota, so they’re on me. I was gob smacked! There’s that Maritime generosity again, it’s so great. I’m going to suffer culture shock when I get home.
Dave is going to cook my crab for 6 PM, can’t wait!
Crab was fabulous! It’s like lobster claw meat on steroids for flavor, but a little harder to eat, just the meal for a patient man. Lots left over to offer Dave and company. Went up to the Red Shoe after supper for kitchen party week. Great Celtic band and I met a guy from Alaska who is getting in touch with his Celtic alter ego, much like me. He heard some Celtic music at home in Alaska and the penny dropped. He has been all over, including Scotland, wired to the music and culture.
Just waiting for the storm now. The bike is tucked away and here’s hoping things don’t get too bad. Time will tell. Just one more adventure.

Day 28, July 5, 2014
Just waiting for the storm to get here, it’s making landfall in Yarmouth at the moment. Hope my laundry gets done before, and if, the power goes out. I’d like to watch the women’s final tennis, I need power for that too.
The tennis was more than a little one sided. Poor Genie Bouchard was blown out by Kvitova, who has a wicked serve and service return. Bouchard was never really in it, but at least she got into the final, that’s a major accomplishment.
Dave’s wife hunted me up some Mabou oysters, delivered to the inn by the oyster gal herself, Lisa Nisi. Lisa is a real character, Japanese American, from New York City originally, escaped from the fashion industry as a designer, with lots of wild stories from her days in the business. We must’ve talked for an hour as I ate my oysters. Amazing how people network around here, nothing is too much trouble.

The storm is starting to fizzle out without really doing much of anything up here. It’s still gusty but the sun is out and it’s really very nice though way too windy to be on the bike. They are calling for rain tomorrow as the storm wraps around on its way out, we’ll see. The power just went out, it’s 4:30 PM and Dave is getting the generator fired up. Wind is staying up and the power didn’t come back until about 7:30 PM.